Planting Calendar by USDA Zone

Home / Guides / Vegetables

Planting Calendar by USDA Zone

Timing is half of gardening: the same tomato seedling thrives planted after the last frost and dies planted two weeks too early. Your USDA zone and frost dates turn guesswork into a calendar — here’s how to build yours.

November 2026 · 5 min read · Numbers checked against extension sources

Short answer

Find your USDA zone and your average last spring frost date, then count backwards: start tomatoes and peppers indoors 6–8 weeks before it, direct-sow peas, radishes, and spinach 2–4 weeks before it, and set out warm-season crops only after all frost danger has passed.

Find your USDA zone

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map divides North America by average annual minimum winter temperature, from Zone 1 (coldest) to Zone 13 (warmest). Most US gardeners fall in Zones 3–10. Your zone tells you which perennials survive your winter — but for timing vegetable sowings, the number that matters most is your average last spring frost date, which tracks roughly with zone.

Frost dates by zone

These are broad averages — always confirm with your county extension service or a local almanac, since elevation and large lakes shift dates by weeks:

USDA zone Avg. last spring frost Avg. first autumn frost
Zone 3 Mid-May Mid-September
Zone 4 Early May Late September
Zone 5 Late April Early October
Zone 6 Mid-April Mid-October
Zone 7 Early April Late October
Zone 8 Mid-March Mid-November
Zone 9 Late February Early December
Zone 10 Frost rare Frost rare

Timing by crop

Seed packets speak in weeks relative to your last frost date (LFD). Cool-season crops shrug off light frost; warm-season crops die in it:

Crop When (relative to last frost) How
Peas 4–2 weeks before Direct sow
Radishes, spinach 4–2 weeks before Direct sow
Carrots, beets 3–1 weeks before Direct sow
Lettuce 3–1 weeks before Direct sow or transplant
Brassica transplants 2–0 weeks before Transplant hardened seedlings
Tomatoes, peppers Start indoors 8–6 weeks before; transplant 0–2 weeks after Indoors, then transplant
Beans, corn, squash, cucumbers 1–3 weeks after Direct sow into warm soil

The count-back formula

Indoor sow date = last frost date − weeks listed on the packet

Example: your last frost averages 15 April and the tomato packet says “start indoors 6 weeks before last frost.” Count back six weeks → sow around 4 March. Keep seedlings under strong light and don’t rush them outside: transplant when nights stay reliably above 50°F.

Succession sowing and autumn crops

Don’t stop in spring. Sow fast crops (radishes, lettuce, bush beans) every 2–3 weeks for continuous harvests, and plan autumn crops by counting back from your first autumn frost: sow date = first frost − (days to maturity + 14 days for slowing autumn growth). A Zone 6 gardener with a mid-October first frost sows 60-day carrots around mid-July for an autumn harvest.

Get your exact sowing dates

Done with the averages? Plug in your real last frost date and let the Seed Starting Calendar Generator count back every crop for you.

Try the Seed Starting Calendar Generator →

Frequently asked questions

How do I find my exact last frost date?

Your county extension service publishes local frost dates, and most almanacs list them by town. The zone table above is a starting average — your town’s real date can differ by two weeks or more, so look it up once and write it down.

Does my zone affect summer growing too?

Only indirectly. USDA zones measure winter cold, not summer heat — a Zone 5 garden can still hit 95°F in July. For heat-loving crops, your frost-free growing season length (last spring frost to first autumn frost) matters more than the zone number.

Can I plant before the last frost date?

Cool-season crops, yes: peas, spinach, radishes, and carrots tolerate light frosts, and fleece adds a few degrees of protection. Warm-season crops — tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash — wait until all frost danger has passed and the soil has warmed.

What about autumn planting?

Count backwards from your first autumn frost: subtract the crop’s days to maturity plus about two extra weeks for slower autumn growth. Sow too late and the crop stalls in the cold; the formula above keeps you on time.

Do microclimates change my dates?

Yes. Walled gardens, urban plots, and south-facing slopes run warmer — shift dates about a week earlier in spring. Low-lying spots collect cold air and frost first — shift a week later. Observe your own garden for a season and adjust.

Vegetables

Easiest Vegetables to Grow for Beginners

Know when to sow? Pick forgiving crops to start with.

Read guide →

Vegetables

How to Grow Tomatoes in a Raised Bed

Warm-season timing matters most for tomatoes.

Read guide →

Vegetables

Square Foot Gardening: Spacing for Small Beds

Timing set? Plan what fits in each square foot.

Read guide →

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Scroll to Top
GardenMathLab
Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.