Spring Garden Checklist
Spring is the season of maximum consequence: every job done on time compounds, and every missed window compresses the whole season. This checklist orders the work the way experienced gardeners do it — soil first, seeds on schedule, transplants by temperature — so nothing important slips.
The spring checklist, in order: wake and test the soil (6 weeks before the last frost), start seeds indoors on schedule (6–8 weeks before the last frost for tomatoes and peppers), repair beds and irrigation, harden off seedlings for 7–10 days, transplant by soil temperature — 60°F+ for tomatoes, 65°F+ for peppers — mulch 3–4 inches deep once the soil warms, and sow succession crops every 2–3 weeks. Hit these windows and the garden largely runs itself.
The countdown: weeks before the last frost
Every date below counts back (or forward) from your average last spring frost date:
| Weeks before last frost | Jobs |
|---|---|
| 8–6 | Order seeds; take a soil test; sketch the rotation plan; start onions and leeks indoors |
| 6–4 | Start tomatoes, peppers and eggplant indoors; repair bed frames; sharpen tools |
| 4–2 | Start brassicas and lettuce indoors; top-dress beds with 2–3 in of compost; set up irrigation |
| 2–0 | Harden off seedlings; lay black plastic to warm soil; sow peas and spinach outdoors |
| After last frost | Transplant tender crops by soil temperature; mulch; begin succession sowings |
Soil first: testing, warming, feeding
Test before you amend. A basic soil test ($15–$25 through your extension service) reports pH and key nutrients. Most vegetables want pH 6.0–7.0, with 6.5 the sweet spot — amend only what the test says is missing.
Warm it up. A sheet of black plastic laid over beds for 1–2 weeks raises the top inches of soil by several degrees, buying you an earlier sowing. Remove or slit it at planting time.
Feed it. Spread 2–3 inches of finished compost over beds and let the worms pull it in. And the golden rule of spring soil: never work it wet. Squeeze a handful — if it forms a ball that crumbles when poked, it is ready; if it stays in a slick lump, wait.
Seed-starting schedule
Count back from the last frost date. Starting too early gives leggy, root-bound seedlings; too late wastes the season:
| Crop | Start indoors | Move outdoors |
|---|---|---|
| Onions, leeks | 10–12 weeks before | 4 weeks before last frost |
| Peppers, eggplant | 8–10 weeks before | 2–3 weeks after last frost |
| Tomatoes | 6–8 weeks before | 1–2 weeks after last frost |
| Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli) | 4–6 weeks before | 2–4 weeks before last frost (hardy) |
| Lettuce | 4 weeks before | 2–4 weeks before last frost |
| Cucumbers, squash | 2–3 weeks before | After last frost (they resent root disturbance) |
Top up beds without guessing
Spring top-dressing is simple maths: bed area × depth = cubic feet of compost. The Raised Bed Soil Calculator does it instantly.
Beds, water and infrastructure
- Repair frames — replace rotted boards, re-level beds, tighten corner screws.
- Test irrigation before you need it: run drip lines, unclog emitters, check timers and replace cracked hose washers.
- Clean glass and plastic on cold frames and greenhouses — dirty glazing cuts light by up to 20%.
- Refill water barrels and check downspout diverters after winter.
- Set up supports early: tomato stakes, pea netting and bean trellises go in at planting time, not a month later when roots are in the way.
Transplanting: the soil-temperature rules
Air frost dates get the headlines, but soil temperature decides whether transplants thrive or sulk. Measure 3–4 inches deep in the morning:
| Crop | Minimum soil temp | Ideal range |
|---|---|---|
| Peas | 40°F | 40–75°F |
| Lettuce, spinach | 40°F | 50–70°F |
| Beans, corn | 60°F | 70–85°F |
| Tomatoes (transplant) | 60°F | 65–75°F |
| Peppers, eggplant | 65°F | 75–85°F |
| Cucumbers, squash | 65°F | 70–90°F |
Harden off every indoor seedling for 7–10 days before planting out: a few hours of outdoor shade at first, building to full sun and overnight stays. Skipping this step is the commonest cause of transplant shock.
Mulch and the first succession sowings
Once the soil has warmed, mulch 3–4 inches deep with straw or shredded leaves — after warming, not before, or you will insulate the cold in. Then start the succession engine: sow lettuce and radishes every 2 weeks, beans every 2–3 weeks, and the garden stays productive for months (see our succession planting guide).
Frequently asked questions
When should I start seeds indoors?
Count back from your last frost date: tomatoes 6–8 weeks, peppers 8–10 weeks, brassicas 4–6 weeks. Starting earlier rarely helps — oversized seedlings transplant worse than right-sized ones.
Can I work the soil early in spring?
Only if it passes the squeeze test: a handful should form a ball that crumbles when poked. Working wet soil destroys its structure for the whole season — patience here pays all year.
My seedlings are tall and floppy. What went wrong?
Not enough light. Keep grow lights 2–3 inches above the seedlings, run them 14–16 hours a day, keep the room cool, and brush the tops daily or run a gentle fan — the movement builds sturdier stems.
Is black plastic safe for warming soil?
Yes, as a temporary mulch: lay it 1–2 weeks before planting, then remove it or cut planting slits. Do not leave solid plastic down all season — water cannot penetrate it.
A late frost is forecast after I transplanted. What now?
Cover tender plants with fabric row cover or upturned buckets before nightfall and water the soil in the afternoon — moist soil releases heat overnight. Uncover in the morning.
Related guides
Frost Dates Explained: Last and First Frost
Every date on this checklist counts from your last frost — here is how to find it.
Fall Garden Tasks: Putting Beds to Bed
The autumn jobs that make this spring checklist short — feed and cover in October.
Easiest Vegetables to Grow for Beginners
What to plant once the checklist is done — ten forgiving crops.